Yesteryear is Tomorrow: Kensington Market

Those who live out la vie bohéme and those who are curious about the laid back lifestyle, know that Kensington will provide for the utmost experience. As one browses through the market, the various shops and merchandise reflect and have captured certain spaces in time. Yet, these retrospective snapshots are holding on very strong to the present and allude to a promising future for vintage fashions in Toronto. Whether its denim jackets or the recently reborn harem pants, vintage fashions in Kensington are right on beat with current fashion waves.

The existence of the vintage fashion shop much relies on the vibrancy and character of the neighbourhood. Character is not something that Kensington market is lacking. The market could not survive without thrift shops and thrift shops would be lacking a home without Kensington.

This notion is echoed by vintage enthusiast and shop owner Roger D’Souza, owner and operator of three shops in the Market – Flashback, Flashback II and King of Kensington. In true Kensington spirit, our conversation takes place in any thrift seekers paradise – the garage. It is a room filled with vintage and collector gems that are very dear to the shop owner. Collector western toy guns adorn the walls and hand woven jackets from WWII lay across his vintage Harley. The market has changed a bit since he opened his first store Prophets in 1997, but he strongly believes that changes to vintage fashions or their shops is minimal. “I believe in my business, I believe in vintage,” says D’Souza. Despite the encroaching construction of condos and small boutiques in the area, he refuses to give ground. “It will take more than condos to change Kensington – there’s a lot of resistance in the community. Personally I will not change myself, nor my business”.

Just around the corner from D’Souza, Kensington resident and owner of Exile Lynn Hartell, has watched the gradual evolution of Kensington for 36 years, but refutes the idea that it is slowly becoming a boutique centre. She also believes that the neighbourhood is far too close knit to be gentrified in totality, as many of the vintage shop owners are the primary or secondary owners of their buildings. These owners are not selling and their passion for vintage clothing and thrift items will continuously trump competitiveness.

The vintage fashions at the core of Kensington clothes shopping are also pieces of resistance themselves. For those who are seeking vintage clothing are looking for a unique and timeless cummerbund or a rugged fringed leather jacket, that will set them apart from the mainstream.

Newcomers to Kensington might have preconceived notions of the shops as being rather messy and disorderly. Quite the opposite, these vintage shops are well-organized and some have been merchandised like your average Gap store. This makes their clothing easily accessible and their stores functional, more so welcoming and accommodating than its not so distant neighbour, the boutique promenade of Yorkville. The reality is that Kensington market may be very laid back and thrifty but it still appeals to a clientele that prides vintage pieces and those who are fashion conscious. These are not the same crowds that frequent the local Value village or Goodwill in the search for a sale.

Lynn explains, “to be a true vintage shopper one must become acquainted with authentic vintage fabrics such as cashmere and one must also know key designers of the 40s and 50s such as Oscar De La Renta and this is how you will be able to distinguish timeless, quality pieces.”

As one leaves the market the tone does not seem to be one of worry, but one of hope and prosperity. The owners in the community are aware of the changes happening around them and the arrival of a boutique here and there, but are not moved by them.

“In Kensington there is a market even for boutiques” D’Souza. They recognize that there are consumers who are not willing to devote the time to search through a vintage store and who would prefer immediate gratification. The only change within vintage fashions that the majority of owners can foresee will be a gradual transition towards more shops selling new clothing, along with their vintage pieces. However, this cannot be deemed as a negative change in identity, as some shops have already begun selling new pieces and some are totally against it. Those who are passionate and are vintage fashion enthusiasts recognize that Kensington market is Toronto’s Vintage Mecca and will not hesitate to defend it and ensure that it remains untouched and survives any gentrification on the horizon. The market shares many different skins, colours and beliefs. It has a certain vibrancy and awkward vibe that it embraces whole heartedly, which continues to uniquely set it apart from anywhere else in Toronto. At its core, the Kensington market community of owners, artists and clientele will continue to be resistant to the pressures of the mainstream and its vintage fashions will be the prominent expression in its piéce de résistance.

Lydia Gill